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$59 diagnostic, credited to repairWhite-glove priority90-day warranty

Pool Heater Repairfor South Florida pools & spas.

When the spa won't fire or the heat pump runs all day without touching the water, we diagnose and fix it on the first visit whenever parts allow. We service both worlds — gas heaters (Pentair MasterTemp, Hayward Universal H-Series, Raypak Digital) for fast spa heat, and the heat pumps (Pentair UltraTemp, Hayward HeatPro, AquaCal, Gulfstream) that dominate South Florida pools. Cupronickel and titanium heat exchangers, ignition controls, pressure switches, defrost boards, and sealed-system work all under one truck.

  • 18
    Full-time technicians
    Not subcontractors
  • 4.79
    From 871 verified reviews
    Google, Yelp & other platforms
  • $59
    Diagnostic visit
    Credited to your repair
  • 70
    Cities covered
    Miami-Dade · Broward · Palm Beach
  • Priority
    Most visits booked <1 hour
    Open 7 days · 7 AM – 9 PM
  • 90-day
    Warranty on labor & parts
    Licensed & insured
Eugene Berne, owner of Berne Appliance Repair
Eugene Berne
Owner · Berne Appliance Repair

I'm Eugene Berne. Pool heaters are the appliance South Florida homeowners forget about until the first January cold snap — and then everyone calls at once.

Here's what eleven years on Miami-Dade and Broward decks taught me: the salt air and pool chemistry that make this such a beautiful place to own a pool are also the two things quietly eating your heat exchanger. Gas heaters with bare-copper cores corrode from the inside when water chemistry drifts; heat pumps survive longer on titanium coils but lose their nerve when the fan motor or defrost sensor gives out. The difference between a $300 ignition-control fix and a $2,800 heat-exchanger replacement is almost always how early you call. I'd rather send a tech for a flame-sensor cleaning than condemn a corroded core six months later.

We charge a flat $59 to come diagnose it — and that's free if you approve the repair. No diagnostic fee stacked on top, no guessing.

What we see most

Sound familiar?

We diagnose on the first visit and quote the repair before any work starts.

  • Gas heater won't ignite or locks out on startup
  • Heat pump runs but water never warms
  • Error code on the display (Pentair E05/E06, Hayward LO/IF/HS, Raypak codes)
  • Heat exchanger leaking or corroded (salt/chlorine damage)
  • Pressure switch open — no flow / dirty filter fault
  • Heat pump fan not turning or icing over in a cool snap
  • Soot, rumbling, or short-cycling on a gas burner
How it works

From "down" to "done" — in one careful visit.

  1. 0 min
    Step 1

    Call or text

    One number, one minute. We reserve a priority window that fits your schedule.

  2. Booked
    Step 2

    $59 diagnostic

    A factory-trained specialist finds the root cause and quotes the repair. The $59 is credited toward the work.

  3. First visit
    Step 3

    Repair done right

    Trucks carry common parts for the premium platforms we service. Most repairs finish on the first visit, work area left spotless.

  4. 90 days
    Step 4

    90-day warranty

    Same issue comes back — so do we, no charge. Receipt and warranty emailed before we leave.

Real diagnostics

How we diagnose & fix pool heaters

Gas and heat-pump heaters fail in completely different ways, so we diagnose them differently. On gas units we trace the ignition sequence — gas valve, igniter, flame sensor, pressure switch, thermal regulator — and read the brand error code. On heat pumps we check refrigerant pressures, the titanium coil, the fan motor, and the defrost logic. Below are the calls we run most across South Florida.

Gas heater clicks, tries to light, then locks out

Likely cause
Ignition sequence is failing. Most often a dirty or cracked flame sensor that can't prove flame, a weak hot-surface igniter, or a gas valve that isn't opening. On Pentair MasterTemp this throws E05 (ignition lockout); on Hayward Universal H-Series it shows IF (ignition failure).
What we do
Pull and clean or replace the flame sensor, ohm-test the igniter (a good HSI reads ~40-75 ohms cold), and verify gas pressure at the valve. Igniters and flame sensors for MasterTemp, H-Series, and Raypak Digital stay on the truck — most ignition calls finish on the first visit.

Heat pump is running all day but the water never warms up

Likely cause
On a heat pump that usually means a low or lost refrigerant charge from a pinhole leak, a failing reversing valve, or a fan that's barely moving air across the evaporator. A low charge starves the titanium coil and the unit just churns ambient air. This is the #1 South Florida heat-pump call.
What we do
We gauge the system, find the leak, and recover/recharge under EPA Section 608 (we hold Universal certification — sealed-system work is never a DIY or unlicensed job). If the coil is intact, a leak repair and recharge restores it; if the titanium coil is breached we quote the exchanger.

Display shows a fault code and the heater won't run

Likely cause
Every brand speaks its own dialect. Pentair E05/E06 = ignition or stack/flame-rollout sensor; Hayward LO = low water temp safety, HS = high-limit, IF = ignition failure; Raypak codes flag pressure switch, ignition, or high-limit faults. The code points to the system, not always the part.
What we do
We carry brand code-reference cards and a manometer plus multimeter. We read the live code, confirm the failing sensor or switch with a meter, and replace it. Most code-driven calls close in 60-90 minutes; control-board swaps add 1-3 business days for the part.

Green or white crust around the heater, or water pooling under it

Likely cause
Heat-exchanger corrosion. South Florida pool chemistry plus salt air is brutal on bare-copper and even cupronickel cores — low pH, high chlorine, or a salt chlorinator pushes the water acidic and the exchanger erodes from the inside. Gas units suffer worst; you'll see green copper salts and eventually a leak that drips onto the burner tray.
What we do
We confirm the leak isn't just a header O-ring or pressure-switch fitting first — those are cheap. If the exchanger itself is breached, we quote a cupronickel (gas) or titanium (heat-pump) replacement and walk you through whether repair or a new heater is the smarter spend on your unit.

Gas heater starts then shuts off in seconds; reads a flow or pressure fault

Likely cause
The water-pressure switch isn't seeing enough flow, so the heater refuses to fire for safety. Cause is usually upstream: a dirty filter, closed valve, low pump speed (variable-speed pumps set too low for heat mode), or a clogged exchanger. Sometimes the pressure switch itself has corroded contacts.
What we do
We check flow first — backwash/clean the filter, confirm valve positions and pump speed. If flow is good and it still faults, we test and replace the pressure switch. Switches for Pentair, Hayward, and Raypak are stock items, so these calls usually finish same-visit.

Heat-pump fan won't spin, or the coil ices up on a cool morning

Likely cause
A seized or burned-out fan motor stops airflow across the evaporator; with no air movement the titanium coil frosts in a cold snap and the unit either ices over or trips. On models like Hayward HeatPro and AquaCal a failed fan motor or a defrost sensor/board that won't run the defrost cycle is the usual culprit.
What we do
We replace the fan motor and capacitor and verify the defrost cycle actually engages. If the defrost sensor or control board isn't triggering, we test and order it direct. After repair we confirm the coil clears and the unit holds setpoint.
Pool Heater brands we service

Senior techs, OEM parts, and a careful hand in a fine home.

Pentair
Hayward
Raypak
Jandy
Zodiac
AquaCal
Gulfstream
Sta-Rite
MasterTemp
FAQ

Pool Heater Repair — questions we get

  • Should I get a gas heater or a heat pump for my South Florida pool?

    Both have a place here. Heat pumps dominate residential pools in Miami-Dade and Broward because our warm air makes them cheap to run for steady all-season pool heating — but they heat slowly. Gas heaters (Pentair MasterTemp, Raypak Digital) heat fast, so they're ideal for spas and on-demand quick heat. Plenty of luxury homes run both: a heat pump for the pool, a gas heater for the spa. We service and repair either.

  • Is my pool heater worth repairing or should I replace it?

    It comes down to which part failed and how old the unit is. Ignition controls, flame sensors, pressure switches, fan motors, and gas valves are economical repairs — almost always worth it. A breached heat exchanger on a unit under about eight years old is usually still worth replacing the core; on an older corroded unit, a new heater often makes more sense. We give you the parts number, the labor breakdown, and an honest repair-vs-replace call — no upsell.

  • Which pool heater brands do you service?

    All the majors used in South Florida — Pentair (MasterTemp, UltraTemp, ETi), Hayward (Universal H-Series gas, HeatPro heat pump), Raypak (Digital, Avia), Jandy/Zodiac, AquaCal, and Gulfstream. We carry common ignition parts, sensors, and pressure switches for these on the truck.

  • How much does a pool heater diagnostic cost?

    A flat $59 diagnostic. That covers the tech coming out and fully diagnosing the heater — and it's credited to your repair if you approve it. No separate diagnostic fee, no surprise add-ons. You get a clear quote before any work starts.

  • Why do pool heaters corrode so fast in coastal Florida?

    Two reasons working together: salt air off the Atlantic and pool water chemistry. Salt aerosol attacks the cabinet and electronics, while unbalanced water — low pH, high chlorine, or a salt chlorinator running acidic — eats the heat exchanger from the inside. The fix is maintenance: keep pH at 7.4-7.6 and alkalinity in range, rinse the cabinet down seasonally if you're near the water, and have the heater serviced once a year. We can set you up on a maintenance check that catches corrosion before it becomes a $2,000+ exchanger.

Contact

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Open 7 days. Priority scheduling — most visits booked within the hour.

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