European-Spec Appliance Repair for Yachts & Homesfor European-built yachts and Euro-spec homes across South Florida.
European-built yachts and European-owned homes bring their appliances with them, and those appliances were never built for American current. Azimut, Ferretti, Sunseeker, Princess, Benetti, Sanlorenzo, and Riva hulls carry factory Miele, Gaggenau, Bosch, Siemens, Smeg, Liebherr, AEG, and Electrolux appliances wired for 230 volts and 50 hertz, running dockside through an isolation transformer or a frequency converter off 120-volt, 60-hertz US shore power. The same units turn up in Miami Beach, Bal Harbour, Fisher Island, and Fort Lauderdale homes and condos owned by European buyers who shipped their kitchen with them instead of buying the US-market version. We repair the appliance and the power path feeding it: transformers, taps, and frequency converters from Atlas and ASEA, plus the inverters some boats run at anchor. A US-market control board is not an interchangeable part for a European chassis, and a 240-volt American split-phase circuit is not the same thing electrically as 230-volt European single-phase with a neutral, so we check both sides before anyone orders a part.
- 19Full-time techniciansNot subcontractors
- 4.8From 1254 verified reviewsGoogle, Yelp & other platforms
- $59Diagnostic visitCredited to your repair
- 70Cities coveredMiami-Dade · Broward · Palm Beach
- PriorityMost visits booked <1 hourOpen 7 days · 7 AM – 9 PM
- 10-yrParts warranty up to 10 years90-day labor · Licensed & insured
A European yacht dishwasher sat dead at a Fort Lauderdale marina for six weeks before anyone called us, because three shops had already turned it down.
The boat was a European-built motor yacht with the factory Miele dishwasher still wired the way the builder left it: 230 volts, 50 hertz, running through an isolation transformer off the boat's 120-volt shore power. Two local shops looked at the data plate, saw a voltage and hertz rating that didn't match a US kitchen, and said they didn't carry the parts. A third quoted a full US-market replacement and a rebuild of the galley cabinetry to fit it. The dishwasher wasn't a mystery once we opened it. The drain pump had failed the way these pumps fail when a 50-hertz motor spends two years running about 20 percent fast on 60-hertz current, and the transformer feeding it was tapped for 240 volts instead of 230, so the control board had been running warm the whole time too. We ordered the correct Euro-spec pump, corrected the transformer tap, and had the dishwasher back on a normal cycle within the week, counting the part's transit time from Europe.
If a shop tells you a European appliance can't be fixed in the US, ask whether they checked the transformer before they said no. Most of the time nobody did.
Sound familiar?
We diagnose on the first visit and quote the repair before any work starts.
- Dishwasher won't drain or circulate, or trips off mid-cycle
- Washer-dryer heater burns out early, or the dry cycle keeps shutting off
- Induction cooktop board faults or won't hold power on generator or inverter
- Refrigerator or wine cooler compressor runs constantly, or drifts off its setpoint
- Water inlet valve leaks, weeps, or won't shut off and the tub overfills
- Control board shows a fault code no US parts catalog recognizes
- Transformer runs hot, hums loudly, or trips its breaker
- A previous shop recommended a full US-model swap instead of a repair
From "down" to "done" — in one careful visit.
- 0 minStep 1
Call or text
One number, one minute. We reserve a priority window that fits your schedule.
- BookedStep 2
$59 diagnostic
A factory-trained specialist finds the root cause and quotes the repair. The $59 is credited toward the work.
- First visitStep 3
Repair done right
Trucks carry common parts for the premium platforms we service. Most repairs finish on the first visit, work area left spotless.
- Up to 10 yrsStep 4
Tiered warranty
Parts covered up to 10 years (sealed-system welds), 2 years mechanical, 1 year electronics — plus 90 days on labor. Receipt and warranty emailed before we leave.
How we diagnose and fix European-spec appliances on US power
A European appliance on American power has two systems to check before anyone touches a part: the appliance itself, and the transformer, converter, or inverter feeding it. We read the data plate for the voltage and frequency the factory actually built it for, meter the supply at the appliance terminals under load, and confirm the transformer tap or converter output before we decide whether the fault is the machine or the power behind it.
Dishwasher drain or circulation pump fails within a year or two of arriving in the US
- Likely cause
- European dishwasher pumps are wound for 50 hertz. Feed them through a step-up transformer off 60-hertz shore power and the transformer corrects the voltage but does nothing about frequency, so an induction motor built for 50 hertz spins about 20 percent faster than its bearings and seals were designed to handle. On a drain pump that shows up as early bearing wear and a seal that starts weeping. On a circulation pump it shows up as more noise, a shorter service life, and sometimes a wash cycle that never fully clears because the impeller is moving water at the wrong rate for the spray-arm geometry the factory calibrated.
- What we do
- We confirm the frequency mismatch with a meter at the pump terminals, then replace the pump with the correct Euro part number, not a US 60-hertz substitute that looks similar but spins at the wrong speed. Where the boat or home runs the appliance off shore power full time, we talk to the owner about a proper 50-hertz frequency converter instead of a transformer alone, since that's the fix that actually addresses the wear instead of buying another year.
Washer-dryer heater or thermostat fails early, or the dry cycle keeps shutting off
- Likely cause
- A European condensing washer-dryer's heater is resistive, so voltage matters more than frequency for the element itself, but the blower and drum motor face the same 50-hertz problem as the dishwasher pump. Overspeed the blower and the dryer moves more air than the condenser coil was sized for, which throws off the temperature sensor's reading and trips the thermal cutout early. Owners describe this as a dryer that quits ten or fifteen minutes into a cycle and comes back damp.
- What we do
- We check supply voltage and frequency at the unit, verify blower speed against factory spec, and test the thermal cutout and thermostat before replacing either. If the blower is overspeeding because of frequency, we address the power side first. A heater replacement without fixing the frequency mismatch buys another year before the same fault returns.
Induction cooktop faults, drops power, or won't heat past a low setting
- Likely cause
- Induction boards drive the coil at a frequency generated internally, well above line current, so line frequency matters less here than voltage stability. What actually kills these boards on a boat is generator power: voltage sag and frequency wobble under load that a shore-power pedestal never produces. A European board built for a clean 230-volt supply reads that instability as a fault and shuts the zone down or refuses to ramp past a low setting.
- What we do
- We put a meter on the supply while the cooktop is under load and compare what the generator or inverter is actually delivering against what the board expects. A board that's genuinely failed gets replaced with the matching Euro part, ordered to the model and serial number. A board that checks out fine but is starved of clean power points us at the generator, the inverter's output stage, or the transformer instead, and we tell the owner which one before anyone spends money on a cooktop part.
Refrigerator or wine cooler compressor runs constantly, or the cabinet drifts off its setpoint
- Likely cause
- European refrigeration compressors, Liebherr and the Euro-spec Bosch and Electrolux platforms included, are built around 50-hertz timing for their defrost cycle and often their compressor's start winding. Run one on 60-hertz current through a plain transformer and the compressor cycles faster than its defrost timer expects, so frost builds on the evaporator between defrosts and the compressor runs longer to compensate, which reads to the owner as a fridge that never stops running.
- What we do
- We check the compressor's actual run time against its rated duty cycle, verify the defrost timer and thermistor, and confirm the supply frequency the unit is actually seeing. Where the appliance was built for 50 hertz and is living on 60-hertz power full time, the honest fix is a frequency converter on that circuit, not a series of thermistor and defrost-timer swaps that treat the symptom and leave the cause alone.
Water inlet valve leaks, weeps, or won't shut off, and the tub overfills
- Likely cause
- European inlet valves are rated to European mains pressure, which runs lower and steadier than a yacht's pressurized fresh-water system. A boat's water pump commonly holds 40 to 55 psi at the tap, and a home's US municipal supply can also run higher than the appliance's home-country mains. A valve solenoid rated for a lower working pressure wears its diaphragm faster under that extra push and starts weeping or sticking open.
- What we do
- We check supply pressure at the appliance and compare it against the Euro spec plate. If the boat's pressure pump or the home's regulator is set high, we recommend a pressure-reducing valve ahead of the appliance instead of replacing the inlet valve every year. If the valve itself has failed, we source the correct Euro part instead of a US valve with a different thread and flow rating that won't seal against the factory fitting.
Control board shows a fault code no US parts catalog recognizes, and the last tech wanted to swap in a US-market board
- Likely cause
- A US-market Miele or Gaggenau board built for the North American 208-240-volt, 60-hertz line is calibrated for that frequency's timing and carries different relay and contactor ratings than the European board built for 230 volts and 50 hertz. The part numbers aren't interchangeable, the wiring harness pinout usually isn't either, and a US board dropped into a European chassis runs the wrong cycle timing even if it powers on. This is the most common wrong turn we see: a shop that can't find the Euro part number tries to force a domestic board into the job instead.
- What we do
- We read the fault code against the correct European service documentation for that model and serial number, not the US equivalent's manual, and order the matching Euro board. Lead time on a control board runs 7 to 21 days depending on the model and whether a European distributor or the factory itself has to ship it. We give owners that number up front instead of promising a same-day fix we can't deliver.
Isolation transformer hums loudly, runs hot to the touch, or its output reads 220 or 240 volts instead of 230
- Likely cause
- Marine and residential step-up transformers for European appliances usually have a few selectable taps on the primary and secondary so an installer can dial in a close match to the appliance's rated voltage. A transformer left on the wrong tap, or one that was simply undersized for the appliance's inrush current, runs hotter than it should and delivers a voltage the appliance wasn't built for. Ten volts high across a heating element or a compressor start winding shortens its life measurably over a couple of years.
- What we do
- We read the transformer's nameplate and its current tap setting, measure the actual output under the appliance's real load, and re-tap it to land as close to 230 volts as the transformer allows. If the transformer is undersized for the appliance's start-up draw, we say so and size the replacement, instead of letting the owner keep replacing parts that are failing because of the power feeding them.
Appliance works fine at the dock but faults or trips a breaker on generator or inverter power
- Likely cause
- Shore power at a marina pedestal is about as clean and stable as power gets. A boat's own generator, or an inverter drawing down the house bank, is a different animal, with voltage sag under load and, on a generator, frequency drift as the engine speed hunts to hold 60 hertz under a changing load. European electronics built around a stable 50-hertz reference are less forgiving of that wobble than the same appliance's US-market cousin, which was engineered against North American generator and inverter norms from the start.
- What we do
- We test the appliance's behavior on shore power, generator power, and inverter power separately and compare what each source actually delivers under load. If the fault only shows up off the dock, the fix is usually on the power side: a generator governor adjustment, a better-filtered inverter, or, on a boat that runs European gear regularly, a dedicated 50-hertz frequency converter such as an Atlas or ASEA unit instead of a plain transformer.
Senior techs, OEM parts, and a careful hand in a fine home.
Related repairs we handle.
One call, one company for the high-end equipment in your home.
The rest of the galley and the boat's own power and cooling. Dockside refrigeration, ice, laundry, and marine AC across South Florida marinas.
Miele's full US and European-spec lineup: dishwashers, washer-dryers, ovens, and coffee systems, in homes and on board.
Gaggenau's built-in ovens, cooktops, and refrigeration, European-spec units included.
Galley dishwasher failures on board, including the 120V/230V power question we walk through on every European hull.
Splendide, Miele, and Bosch combo units in yacht laundry, and the vibration and condenser faults that take them down.
All repair services →Luxury repair cost guide & repair-or-replace calculator →
Read before you call.
European Appliance Running on US Power? What Actually Fails (Miami)Why 230V/50Hz European appliances break down on 120V/60Hz US shore power and mains: motor overspeed, transformer taps, split-phase 240V versus single-phase 230V, and why a US-market control board isn't a swap. For yachts and Euro-spec homes in South Florida.Read the guideEuropean-Spec Appliance Repair for Yachts & Homes — questions we get
Can you actually fix a 230-volt European appliance here in the US?
Yes, most of the time. The appliance itself fails the same way it would in Europe: a pump, a heater, a valve, a board. What makes the job different is sourcing the correct Euro part number and checking the transformer or converter feeding it, both of which we do as a matter of course. A handful of shops turn these jobs away because they don't want to source the part or because the data plate says 50 hertz and they've never worked on one. We have, regularly, on yachts and in Euro-spec homes across South Florida.
Do you just replace it with a US model instead?
No, not as a default. Most European appliances are repairable, and the repair usually costs a fraction of a replacement plus a cabinet rebuild to fit a differently sized US unit. We recommend replacement only when the unit is at true end of life, when a sealed refrigeration system has failed beyond an economical repair, or when the owner tells us they'd rather standardize on US parts going forward. We show you the part and the price before you decide either way.
How long does it take to get European parts?
Typically 7 to 21 days, depending on the part and the model. Common wear items like drain pumps, inlet valves, and heaters often ship faster through a European distributor; a control board built to a specific serial number can run toward the longer end. We give you a real number at diagnosis, not an estimate, and we don't start the clock until you've approved the repair.
Do you work on the shore-power side, the transformer and converter, or just the appliance?
Both. Half of the calls we get on European appliances turn out to be the power feeding them: a transformer on the wrong tap, an undersized unit running hot, or a frequency converter that isn't holding 50 hertz under load. We meter the supply before we touch the appliance, tell you which side the fault is on, and fix the transformer or converter tap when that's the actual problem instead of replacing appliance parts that were never at fault.
Do you service Euro-spec homes and condos, or only boats?
Both. We see the identical setup in Miami Beach, Bal Harbour, and Fisher Island condos and homes owned by European buyers who shipped their kitchen appliances instead of buying US-market versions, and the electrical questions are the same ones we answer at the marina: the right transformer tap, the right frequency, and the right part number. We also cover Fort Lauderdale.
Do you handle the marina's paperwork and access requirements?
Yes. We send a certificate of insurance ahead, fill out a marina's vendor forms, and book slip access around the captain's or crew's schedule. Laundry closets and galley appliances often sit right next to the engine room on these builds, and we work around whatever access a given marina and vessel require.
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Open 7 days. Priority scheduling — most visits booked within the hour.
- Phone(754) 345-4515
- HoursOpen 7 days · 7 AM – 9 PM
- Service areaMiami-Dade · Broward · Palm Beach
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